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SNOW – precip started early & lasted all day as we continued the loop from Iceland’s East Fjords to the North, crossing mountain passes through the Highlands (Iceland’s isolated desert region).

SNOW – while it meant certain tour highlights were altered or delayed, couldn’t have been more pleased with my day.  Upon arriving at the Nature Baths in Mývatn, I brokered a request to leave some of us behind while the tour persisted into town for lunch & local shopping.  Food can happen anytime but a dip in a sulphuric hot springs in the middle of a snowstormin Iceland? Arrived at 11am and didn’t leave ‘til 2pm – left fully pruned 🙂

SNOW – crazy cold; below freezing temps, blowing snow, pelting ice.  Changing room to the outdoor mineral pool – whew, gotta say: had to man-up for that trek.  C-O-L-D.   And because the pool is geothermally heated, found myself chasing pool hot spots — yelping each instance my hot spot unexpectedly shot scalding.  Stood Viking-strong in sideways snow & beading ice, letting my face & body pelt with winter precip.  Arms open wide – couldn’t have felt more alive.  FAAANNNTASTIC day!

SNOW – finished the day with a snow-sleet-rain hike viewing the ‘Dark Castles’ of Dimmuborgir, a labyrinth of lava formations created by volcanic eruptions dating 1724-1729.  Crazy, surreal — two days earlier, I marveled in Iceland’s multi-green hues.  This day, I hiked in oranges & reds, in new snow resting on black volcanic rock.  WOW, WOW, WOW!

SNOW – two weeks ‘til Autumn, yet found ourselves stranded the following morning while our bus seasonally tire-switched & waited for mountain roads to be plowed.  Winter begins in mid-October on average – how lucky am I?  LOVIN’ this day!

 

 

 

After 2 ROCKSTAR days in Iceland, gotta say the Eastern Fjords…not so much.

Iceland’s East Fjords are its most uninhabited area – largest town toured only topped 650 people.  That said, easy to find beauty in even the most unforgiving of climates.

Started the day along the coast line with a short black sand hike to Hvalnes lighthouse.  The chilly North Atlantic & strong undertow keeps Icelanders out of the ocean – opting for natural geothermal hot springs located all over the island.

Bowl of tomato soup for lunch (first non-fish meal in days :)) & self-toured Djúpivogur harbor.  Joined Christine, an Australian on my circle tour, for a short walk-about the small fishing village.  Goal: a stave church at the top of a hill.

Unexpected highlight:  Stopped in a small high-end clothes shop & chatted with its female entrepreneur owner.  Only local sustainable materials are used in their fashions – primarily fish leather.  Concept: use all of the animal, like Viking women of generations past.  Super interesting, very inspiring.

Ended the day in Egilsstaðir.  Named after Egilsstaðir farm, the town (& our lodging) was near Lagarfljót lake.

Took a short walk & enjoyed the beautiful lakeside sunset.  Lamb dinner & off to bed.  Early start tomorrow morning – snow in the forecast (unexpected precip for Iceland, norm is mid-October).

 

 

Started Day 2 driving eastwards from Vik through the lava field Eldhraun, formed from the massive Laki [volcano] eruption in 1783 (which also caused a crazy, cold summer in the States – snow in June & July).

A paper written by Benjamin Franklin in 1783 blamed the unusually cool summer of 1783 on volcanic dust coming from Iceland, where the eruption of Laki volcano had released enormous amounts of sulfur dioxide, resulting in the death of much of the island’s livestock and a catastrophic famine which killed a quarter of the Icelandic population. Northern hemisphere temperatures dropped by about 1 °C in the year following the Laki eruption.

Bright green moss voraciously clings to volcanic rock in this area creating a spongy layer — which in turn supports other herbaceous life like crowberries (a tasty, tart berry – I ate 2 handfuls 🙂 )

From the lava fields of Eldhraun, we stopped briefly for an elf story (Icelanders love their fables – elves, ogres, trolls) before travelling on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where I snapped an amazing shot of the Foss waterfall with Icelandic horses grazing in the foreground.

 

Glaciers & Icebergs

Today’s tour completed the loop around southern Iceland — entering Skaftafell National Park to view the mighty glaciers formed by the Vatnajökull Ice Cap.  WOW²!  (used when WOW just isn’t enough 🙂 )

Europe’s 2nd largest ice shelf covers almost 10% of Iceland.  Glacier blues, mucky silt-laden rivers, crevasses large enough to hide a bus – WOW, WOW, WOW!   Seriously addicted — I could not get close enough.  Soooo…paid for a super jeep excursion which drove out onto the glacier itself, allowing time to climb up volcanic rock overlooking a snow-filled crater.  INCREDIBLE!

In between glacier viewings, logged in a couple hours at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.  Had never previously rode in an amphibious vehicle – SUPER cool!  First motored, then drove into the Lagoon, boating around recently calved icebergs from the surrounding shelf.  Ate a piece of 1000 year-old iceberg – compacted glacial ice chipped away with an ice axe.  AAAAAMAZING DAY!

Gonna enjoy the rest of Iceland but check – already hit all of my ‘bucket list’ highlights, only 2 days in.  SPECTACULAR!