wildlife

Deplane, hike, set-up camp – and MARATHON.   All within an hour-half window, 30 minutes behind our RD’s intention.  He also needed to measure an alternate course, assuring 62 runners who started White Continent would complete their intended distances.

Last January, registered for the event’s 50K.  Had only completed 6 ultra runs IN MY ENTIRE LIFE.  So why here, why Antarctica?  Too many stories from runners past of events that measured short – Alaska 3 years ago, Reykjavik August 2018.  Antarctica would be a one-n-done travel destination.  Not arriving home to find I’d missed my bottom-of-the-World marathon by a tenth or two-tenths a mile.  All in today.  50K.

No water bottles, no electrolytes, no worry.  Hydration vest ready.  What I did need?  A urinal.  8 miles into today’s run, begged a paper cup outta Support Staff.  Filled it twice, diligently emptied both times into the community O’rine can.  Notta best case but did my eco- part.  Bit jealous of our chinstrap spectators – never saw them use the community can.

Half-marathon, marathon, 50K.  9 laps plus two short loops to the Chinese Research Station.  Last minute instructions re: today’s impromptu course.  Lined up, ready – FLOOD of pics.  60 Antarctica dreams realized.  Chilly/ready to run, but no begrudging runners their Start photos – marathoning bottom of the GLOBE, epic.

75 minutes ago, I was backpacking clothes & sleep essentials.  No chance to mentally psych myself out.  NO idea what internal clock my body was running.  Garmin said I pushed forward 4 hours, iPhone still read Chilean time.  Either way, generous time cutoff – finish before midnite Cinderella, start of the Island’s 2 hours nightfall.  TWO hours, that’s it (almost never summer-dark), white dusky overcast the other 22.  (Aside from toileting) most difficult aspect of camping.  Messes with your biorhythm/inner gut, the lack of darkness.

Race Start.  Went out fast, no surprise there.  Settled in after finally thankfully emptying my bladder (quick paper cup aim & disposal).  Would get a chance to complete the task 4 miles later in our proper piss pot.  Blog preview: NEVER used the black pot.  NEVER more than the Ramen provided at tonite’s finish.  NO way, NOT happening, NO way – beware the black pot with a bag!  Ick.

Couple inclines to Bellinghausen (Russian Station), one BIG hill.  Course reverse back to Camp, flat mile to China’s Great Wall Station AND repeat.  Repeat, repeat, repeat.  Lotta laps.  Generally notta FAN.  Today, LOVE LOVED seeing my RUN FAMILY.  iPod shuffle stuck on John Denver.  15 songs over ‘n over ‘n over (sad but true).  Dropped the buds 18 miles in, downed a peach (Punta mercado import), then kicked it STEADY.

Loose rock, snow melt on the flats, still maintained a 10 min/pace.  Power walked UP all hills after lap 2.  Not a lazy meander – arms pumping, UP with purpose.  Colorado trail ran the path back to Camp.  Fast fly.  Worst I could do is FALL HARD.  Trail miracle – no scraps, no blood, no bruises.  Not my norm – top 10 clumsy, generally wear a lotta dirt.

Stayed just ahead of Seth, ‘nother American Maniac.  Push, push, push.  Guy NEVER stops.  Lack of aid stations.  No GU, no electrolytes.  Cold & hilly.  My kind of race – where ‘back of the pack’ runners who NEVER time-benefit from race fuel, we SUCCEED.  Only marathon win EVER, during a blizzard (Jan 2016).  Fitting I’d finish 2nd in Antarctica.

Upbeat, high five attitude.  Didn’t mentally go dark ‘til the 2 short laps at the end.  50K winner Silviu stayed & encouraged (waved his Romanian flag); my White Continent bestie, Katya ran alongside/paced the final mile.  Thanks friend 🙂

6-hour FINISH, sixth continent COMPLETED.  My 2nd best ultra, a 2nd place FINISH.

Hung around & walked-in Lin, nite’s 50K women’s winner.  Folks were there for me – LOVE passed forward.

Special THANKS to my tent mate Jeff.  I finished super cold/physically shaking.  Couldn’t hold my hot Ramen reward.  Dude helped me strip down, handover fresh DRY clothes.  Lot to ask of a complete stranger.  Super appreciative, thanks man.

Marathon finished, strike that.  ULTRA-marathon’d Antarctica tonite.  Absolutely ANYTHING is POSSIBLE!

 

White Continent 50k, Marathon & 1/2 Marathon®
King George Island, Antarctica

January 15, 2019

 

Place Finisher City/State Country Event Time

M1 Silviu Ursu, Iasi Romania 50 Kilometers 5:33:32
M2 Keenan Haga, Louisville, CO U.S.A. 50 Kilometers 6:06:39
M3 Seth Kramer, Wilton Manors, FL U.S.A. 50 Kilometers 6:23:03

 

 

 

So remote, so FAN-TAS-TICAL, a modern day Jules Verne novella – HELLO from the bottom of the World 😊

Two days past I boated open-water & ranger-walked a Chilean penguin reserve.  Today, chinstrap penguins observed ME – a trail of foreign runners trekking to a makeshift camp two miles distance.  Beyond my wildest dreams.  I was here.

Diego de Almagro hotel lobby.  One carry-on, one checked bag.  ‘do not Disturb‘ tagged my door, room rented for a week.  Sixty+ on-time travelers, ready/all accounted for.

Passports collected, boarding passes distributed, every seat sold.  Solid buzz of timber.  Voice arcs of language, loud laughter, buzz-buzz-buzz.  No ONE dominate conversation, a happy mix of shares.  ANTARCTICA DREAM realized – multiplied 60.

3 hour flight.  Cloud cover obscured all window-touristing.  Propeller buzz, the new constant.  Static comforting drone of sound.  Lost in individual thought, wrapped inside our own Private Idaho.  Quiet anticipation.  20 minutes out, descending.  Hum change.

Ocean, white caps.  First LOOK.  NO, not white caps – ICEBERGS.

Snow scattered LAND below.  Holy moly – WOW WOW WOW!  First PASS.  Plane tipped left, UP, circled twice.  Now confidentially approaching, 2nd descent.  Peninsula littered with Research Modulars painted red – Russia, Chile, Korea, China.

Close, close, closer…TOUCHDOWN.  CHEERS from the Team.  Job WELL done.

Imminent immediate Photo Tourette’s.  You know, same pic 20x – absolutely no difference.  Can’t be helped.  Sensory overwhelm.

Disembark.  Bag retrieval.  Two-mile hike to camp, three groups of 20.

barren, LUNAR…

& PENGUINS.  Welcome to Antarctica!  🐧❄️❤️

 

KGI (Isla Rey Jorge) Webcam:  https://www.aipchile.gob.cl/camara_ubicacion/show/designador/SCRM

 

Antarctica TOUCHDOWN

 

 

North Pole polar bears, South Pole penguins.

Early breakfast, lobby FULL with runners.  Marathon Day?  Nope, PENGUINS.  Easy half-mile walk to the Pier, tickets presented, boarded a ferry.  Open water excursion, short hour away.  Isla Magdalena.  No cancellation, no refund, no need – I kissed the BRASS 😊

Nervous excited boat chatter.  Seas rolling but not rough.  Couple sprays from a distant whale pod.  Just a distraction.  Island approach – close, close, closer, PENGUINS.

Disembark instructions: stay on trail, keep moving & don’t chase the natives.

 

🐧 Magellanic Penguin 🐧

South American penguin, breeding in coastal Argentina, Chile and the Falkland Islands, with some migrating to Brazil where they are occasionally seen as far north as Rio de Janeiro…most numerous of the Spheniscus penguins.

Mass: 8.8 lbs  Conservation status: Near Threatened (Population decreasing)

 

Day’s excursion did NOT disappoint.  Literally HUNDREDS of PENGUINS.

Adults matched in size by the dull fluffy adolescent chicks they still supported, preened & fed.  Seemingly nesting EVERYWHERE.  HIGHLY recommended MUST-DO TRIP.

Sooooo much bigger than the wee blue ones seen in Oamaru (NZ/Mar 2017).  Just WOW!

 

Rock-rock-rocky, return ride home.  Took short breaks outside.  Let the cold Tierra del Fuego air numb the quease.  Whole lotta retching.  Yikes!  Who knew my lithe fit Asian brothers stomach’d so much bile?  Just as well today was not Antarctica Day.  Folks gonna need an extra day or two to repopulate calories.  Ick.  Just the sheer Sound, the Smell.  Sad souls.

Post-boat dinner?  Heck yeah, I’m not one to miss a meal 🍴  Italian dinner.  Long table of 8.  Julian (France).  Brad (Quebec).  Kentucky Dave.  Circle continues to grow.

 

Pre-Flight Briefing tomorrow.  ZERO impact (group poop 💩) discussion.

 

 

Isla Magdalena