Started Day 2 driving eastwards from Vik through the lava field Eldhraun, formed from the massive Laki [volcano] eruption in 1783 (which also caused a crazy, cold summer in the States – snow in June & July).
A paper written by Benjamin Franklin in 1783 blamed the unusually cool summer of 1783 on volcanic dust coming from Iceland, where the eruption of Laki volcano had released enormous amounts of sulfur dioxide, resulting in the death of much of the island’s livestock and a catastrophic famine which killed a quarter of the Icelandic population. Northern hemisphere temperatures dropped by about 1 °C in the year following the Laki eruption.
Bright green moss voraciously clings to volcanic rock in this area creating a spongy layer — which in turn supports other herbaceous life like crowberries (a tasty, tart berry – I ate 2 handfuls 🙂 )
From the lava fields of Eldhraun, we stopped briefly for an elf story (Icelanders love their fables – elves, ogres, trolls) before travelling on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where I snapped an amazing shot of the Foss waterfall with Icelandic horses grazing in the foreground.
Glaciers & Icebergs
Today’s tour completed the loop around southern Iceland — entering Skaftafell National Park to view the mighty glaciers formed by the Vatnajökull Ice Cap. WOW²! (used when WOW just isn’t enough 🙂 )
Europe’s 2nd largest ice shelf covers almost 10% of Iceland. Glacier blues, mucky silt-laden rivers, crevasses large enough to hide a bus – WOW, WOW, WOW! Seriously addicted — I could not get close enough. Soooo…paid for a super jeep excursion which drove out onto the glacier itself, allowing time to climb up volcanic rock overlooking a snow-filled crater. INCREDIBLE!
In between glacier viewings, logged in a couple hours at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Had never previously rode in an amphibious vehicle – SUPER cool! First motored, then drove into the Lagoon, boating around recently calved icebergs from the surrounding shelf. Ate a piece of 1000 year-old iceberg – compacted glacial ice chipped away with an ice axe. AAAAAMAZING DAY!
Gonna enjoy the rest of Iceland but check – already hit all of my ‘bucket list’ highlights, only 2 days in. SPECTACULAR!
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- the lava fields of Eldhraun
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- green moss clings to volcanic rock creating a spongy layer
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- crowberries (a tasty, tart berry – I ate 2 handfuls :))
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- Foss (waterfall)
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- Basalt rock & Icelandic horses
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- Kirkjubæjarklaustur – home of elves
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- size-compare homes near the tongue of Vatnajökull – MASSIVE glacier!
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- Icelandic Vanna White has a tougher gig than her American cousin
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- WOW moment! LOVE LOVE glaciers!
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- new snow 🙂
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- crevasses large enough to hide a bus
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- never tire of tundra colour – AMAZING!
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- Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
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- baby’s first amphibious vehicle – LOVED it!
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- Icebergs!
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- try to stop smiling – not possible
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- SPECTACULAR!
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- check out those glacial blues – WOW!
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- 1000+ year old ice
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- don’t mind if I do
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- baby’s first super jeep – I want one!
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- glacier trekking in Iceland
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- cold wind-swept landscape
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- quick climb UP – had to, right?
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- volcano crater
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- WOW² – most amazing day!
I discussed Iceland as a ‘bucket list’ destination with my friend Dawn more than 4 years ago.
Soon after, a massive volcanic eruption (Eyjafjallajökull) disrupted air traffic not only in Iceland but across all of Europe as well. Additionally, I closed on my Colorado home in December 2009 (moved in Jan 2011 – a full year later).
Summed up – life happened.
Fast forward 2013. Dawn put the Iceland bug back in my ear in January. I laid down a $300 trip deposit in March. Purchased airfare in June & bam – on September 10th, boarded a plane to Reykjavik.
Had planned a volcano hike on Wednesday but landed late due to bad weather. Ho hum. Plan B – boarded Flybus at the airport with Dawn & Stephen (who arrived 2 hours earlier from Boston) and spent the day at Blue Lagoon, a hot springs resort outside of Reykjavik. Plan was to stay active & awake – adjusting to ‘Iceland’ time before our island circle tour departed Thursday (the following morning). Check, done.
Waterfalls & geysers
Spent Day 1 travelling southern Iceland. Highlights: Gullfoss, Seljalandsfoss & Skogarfoss waterfalls. Each came with a unique Viking saga; each imprinted a permanent indelible memory. Gullfoss “Golden” waterfall is thunderous & powerful – similar to our Niagara Falls. The spray alone pulled me in – addicting, left me wanting to feel a part of this amazing force. Temps hovered just above freezing but [that] didn’t stop me from my first Day 1 drenching. Adventurous, amazing start.
Trekked literally behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall – BEAUTIFUL (and cold and wet – all at the same time 🙂 ). Our tour guide Ingi-Gunnar gave us only 20 minutes at Skogarfoss waterfall. Just enough time to run UP & catch a view from the top. How many opportunities does one get to climb a waterfall in Iceland, right? FAAANTASTIC!
In between waterfalls, toured Geysir, Iceland’s largest geyser (& from where the term ‘geyser’ originates). Additionally, watched its sibling Strokkur spew boiling sulfur-laced water upwards – before nabbing a bowl of fish soup for lunch.
Ended the day at Dyrholaey, Iceland’s southernmost point, climbing large volcanic rocks overlooking the sea. WOW WOW WOW!
Glaciers & icebergs tomorrow – seriously LOVIN’ this place!
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- Destination: Reykjavik, Iceland
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- first sight of land after 7 1/2 hour flight from Denver
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- Welcome to Iceland & Hekla volcano
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- much colder than yesterday’s Colorado temps
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- Gullfoss “Golden” Waterfalls
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- HUGE waterfall – check out folks on rock shelf (center left)
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- thunderous, massive power
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- not just green but EVERY shade in my Crayola box – LOVE!
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- check out that spray – AMAZING!
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- crazy wet start to my Iceland adventure
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- Geysir – Iceland’s largest (& where the term ‘geyser’ originates)
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- Geysir’s active sibling, Strokkur
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- not as big as Old Faithful but erupts every 8 minutes
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- sheep gathering after free-ranging the Highlands all summer
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- bus detour/turnaround – literally miles of sheep
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- Seljalandsfoss waterfall
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- trekking BEHIND the waterfall – SUPER fun!
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- today’s WOW shot!
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- nope not dreaming – I’m really in Iceland
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- Skógafoss waterfall – yep, climbing this one
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- well worth the hike UP — FANNNNTASTIC!
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- look who’s at the end of my rainbow – Dawn!
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- South Shore black sand & volcanic rock
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- Dyrholaey, Iceland’s southernmost point
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- awesome day of waterfalls & geysers — glaciers & icebergs tomorrow
Purchased an annual Park pass again this year – but all the talk about FREE day inspired me to drive up to Estes & hike another trail in RMNP (2 years in Colorado but still so many trails to choose from – LOVE it!).
The 13 Fee Free Days in 2013 include Martin Luther King Jr. Day (January 21), National Park Week (April 22 – 26), Founders Day (August 25), National Public Lands Day (September 28), and Veterans Day Weekend (Nov. 9-11).
Picked out today’s hike while on the Park N Ride bus provided by RMNP (parking within the Park is crazy crowded through Labor Day – so why not enjoy a free ride to the trailhead?)
Wait, REWIND — 2 days prior, rented a fun Australian film titled Mental. In the opening scene, a mom of five daughters is in her backyard pulling laundry, goes mental, spinning in the backyard singing ‘The Hills are Alive’ from The Sound of Music.
Then on Saturday I hear ‘Climb Every Mountain’ – again, from The Sound of Music. What are the chances?
So when I see a 9.3 mile hike in the Park named (Julie) Andrews Glacier, hmmm…kismet. [Ok, the glacier was not named for Julie Andrews but she was commencement speaker this year at CU – coincidence, I think not. :)]
FAST FORWARD to today’s hike. Hopped off [the bus] at Glacier Gorge trailhead & made a quick stop .8 miles in — at Alberta Falls. I’ve been here before but wow – when the water is sudden/rushing/alive, it’s just breathtaking.
Few more miles within treeline, a 2nd hike stop at The Loch. Loch Vale Lake was an end destination during last year’s hike challenge — but that was November and in the midst of a white-out. This day, stopped and smelled the roses, er…pine.
The trail then snaked noticeably UP over boulders to The Gash & Sharktooth, jugged sawtooth peaks saddled with deposits of glacier snow. Followed a happy Colorado hiking couple (Johnstown & Denver) up the final push to Andrews Tarn & Glacier.
WOW, WOW, WOW!
I have not lost my sense of awe in 20 months of hiking. It’s here, here in the mountains where I feel close to God.
Did a Julie Andrews spin for pics – but unfortunately looked more like Wonder Woman so you won’t find any attached. LOL>
Wait wait, a tarn?
A tarn is a mountain lake or pool, formed in a cirque excavated by a glacier. It is formed when either rain or river water fills the cirque. In Scandinavian languages a tjärn is a small natural lake, often in a forest or with vegetation close around it or growing into the lake.
Waded to my shins in the glacier fed tarn – really really cold water. First numbing then my feet cramped from the intense cold. Life’s meant to be lived. How many dudes get to wade in a glacial pond at 11,400ft? WOW, what a crazy happy life!
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- Alberta Falls, near Glacier Gorge trailhead – WOW!
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- Hike on!
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- Mountain Ash berries
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- The Loch (no monster – but check out the view!)
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- wonder if this is how God sees us
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- Checked in, centered – I LOVE hiking!
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- The Gash (& glacial snow)
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- fellow hikers led climb UP to Andrews
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- Sharkstooth
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- summit view of the Continental Divide
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- WOW pic – Andrews Glacier. AMAZING!
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- numbing waters of Andrews Tarn – Bring it!
