A few weeks ago I received my AAA throw-away magazine. Before my toss to the recycle bin, I noticed a photo-article ‘Best Colorado Fall Hikes’. Named best fall foliage hike in Colorado – Maroon Bells in Aspen.
(Side note – this issue also included an article on the annual buffalo roundup in Custer State Park, South Dakota. September 2014 ‘bucket list’ destination – check, done 🙂 )
After grabbing a quick bite, my friend M & I hit the highway Friday night – plan: camping weekend in Aspen. LOVE camping, LOVE everything outdoors – and LOVE the price (generally free). Binge ate burritos & trail mix at my favourite station in Georgetown, then back on I-70…still 2 ½ hours of heavy driving ahead.
SNOW.
Highway closure.
30 minutes later – miles of stopped vehicles.
Plan B – pushed over into the right lane, exited Loveland Pass & car camped in a Ski School parking lot. Yep, I’ve come a long way from my NYC life. I now wear a beard, sleep in parking lots, eat convenience store burritos & morning flash bath in McDonald’s restrooms. Life is looking UP, living B-I-G in Colorado 🙂
Woke at 3:30am, noticed no one on the highway above so started the trek to Aspen. Heavy ice in Leadville – so traveled slow & steady behind city snowplows. Last hurdle – Independence Pass (Colorado 82) to Aspen.
The Colorado Department of Transportation (CDOT) restricts the use of Highway 82 through the pass. Most significant is the winter closure. The road is typically closed after the first significant winter snowfall, or by November 7 at the latest. CDOT tries to reopen just before Memorial Day weekend in late May, the traditional beginning of summer in the United States, when enough of the accumulated snowpack has melted to make it possible to clear and repair the road.
Luckily the Pass was open. Travelling back to I-70, west to Glenwood Springs & then south to Aspen would have added another 2 hours to our journey. Sun rose at the top of the Pass – landscape frosted white, BEAUTIFUL.
Whole lotta travel – so was it worth it? Oh yeah. Colorado autumn paradise.
The Maroon Bells are considered to be the most photographed peaks in Colorado. Yellow aspens, fresh snow in the mountains. Everything that is Colorado, hues maize this day. Translucent glowing from the inside out. WOW!
Multiple photo opportunities slowed our hike start. Good problem to have 🙂
Trekked 5 miles over snowy trails, through long stretches of native Aspens, enveloped in by 14er peaks. Crossed raging streams fueled by the prior evening’s precipitation. Top 10 Colorado day.
Warmed by high-altitude SUNSHINE, peeled layers as the day progressed. Back-propped against a large rock for 20 minutes & caught zzz’s before the return hike to town.
Wait, wait – it gets better.
City of Aspen closes for 2 months – until the start of ski season. AND as luck would have it, Saturday was the last open day for many shops & restaurants. All food, 50% off. New jacket, 80% off. SCORE!
Camped at Difficult Campground. Luckily, it was not difficult – but jeez, it was cold.
Spent the new morning at John Denver Sanctuary (after juice, oatmeal & another sink-bath at McD’s).
6:30 a.m. start — early morning chill, aspen yellows, remnants of Friday’s snow, native grasses, sunflowers. Engraved stones adorned with lyrics from Denver’s iconic folk ballads. Laugh if you will – HUGE fan of John Denver!
Wait, wait – it gets better.
Lance Armstrong runs by. (Runs at a fast clip & super solid for a cyclist.)
New tradition – Aspen every autumn. SPECTACULAR!
- Aspen in Autumn
- wind, snow, temps in the 20’s – PERFECT!
- Maroon Bells – Colorado’s most photographed mountains
- yellow Aspen hike – I heart Colorado 🙂
- feeling small – LOVE this pic!
- Crater Lake
- amazing colour
- today’s WOW shot!
- who can nap on a rock in the snow? I can 🙂
- Colorado striped bass w/ lump crab ravioli – YUM!
- John Denver Sanctuary
- 630am start – beautiful Colorado morning!
- BIG smile!
- sunshine & sunflowers
- new tradition – Aspen every autumn
Ended Sunday in snow & continued the next 2 days across Northern Iceland stuck in the same weather pattern.
After a late start from Mývatn, visited Goðafoss (waterfall of the Gods) and a traditional turf farm, Laufás – before reaching Akureyri, Iceland’s 2nd largest city (approx 18,000 population). Highlight: Arctic Char at Rub 23.
Woke early Tuesday, destination: the Icelandic horses of Skagafjörður. Watched a horse demonstration & listened to Icelandic folk songs at Varmilækur, a horse farm nestled beneath multiple volcanic mountains in Iceland’s far North.
Skagafjörður is the only county in Iceland where horses outnumber people.
After a day filled with music, trip favourite was the Riding Song sung by our guide Ingi Gunnar Jóhannsson, a former Iceland Eurovision finalist (2nd place – 1988).
WATCH: Ridum Ridum (Icelandic riding song)
Finished the day with a quick hike UP Grábrók, a 3400 year old volcanic crater.
Actually, didn’t just hike UP but ran the loop twice 🙂 AMAZING view, AMAZING day!
- Godafoss (waterfall of the Gods)
- light rain, volcanic rock & moss = slick footing
- Laufas turf farm (circa 1877)
- Akureyri, Iceland’s 2nd largest city
- Arctic Char at Rub 23 – TASTY!
- sweet Keiko from Japan
- Julia from Portugal
- Icelandic Viking Horse at Varmilaekur (www.varmilaekur.is)
- Icelandic folk music, LOVED it! (Ingi Gunnar Johannsson & Bjorn Sveinsson)
- biggest smile of the day
- Grabrokarhraun lava estimated 3400 years old
- one of 3 volcano craters
- Grabrok volcano hike
- first to the top – BIG smiles!
- ran the crater trail twice – FANTASTIC day!
- celebrating sunshine – first rays in 3 days
Today’s hike destination, Mt Princeton – my 14th 14er. Woo-hoo!
Early 3am Saturday start. Drove to the Collegiate Peaks near Buena Vista with my friend M, 3 hours away. Geared up – water, sandwiches, cranberry-almond trail mix & sunblock. Ready to start the 13 mile trek up this Class 2 mountain.
3 miles to the radio tower, then another half mile to the trailhead turnoff. REWARD – cool mountain air and the beginning of autumn. Aspens are turning yellow – fall time in the Rockies (fade in, a John Denver tune 🙂 )
Past treeline, the trail snaked over miles of ‘broken mountain’ – boulder fields. Rock, rock and more rock.
Lost the trail approx a mile/mile half from summit. ARGH! Our only solution – hike UP.
Looking UP 1500 vertical feet, just seemed impossible.
Broke it down in parts. Ro went off leash as we climbed in short calculated bursts with brief oxygen breaks. Quick climb to a large rock outcropping, followed by another brief break. Tough climb. Kept a good attitude and encouraged Ro up the steep slope. Clapping, cheering, whistling – UP UP UP we climbed.
Almost 2 hours later we popped over the top – maybe 200-300 feet from the summit. Amazing limit-less day!
Positives – (1) perfect weather, (2) amazing team attitude (made ALL the difference), (3) physically pushed to another level.
Probably my hardest hike mentally – just behind Barr Trail-Pikes Peak in July & my lightning strike on Mt Audubon in Aug 2012.
The REWARD – HUGE boost in self-confidence. I pushed myself. I finished. I can do ANYTHING.
Ended the day with a natural hot springs soak. Super nice, highly recommended 🙂
- my 14th 14er – Woo-hoo!
- nice day in the mountains
- 3 miles to the radio tower, then 4 miles UP to Mt Princeton
- Hello Autumn – I missed you!
- doing their thing – Aspens are turning yellow 🙂
- treeline
- trekked across a boulder field for miles
- lost the trail – options?
- UP UP UP we climbed
- 2 hours later, popped out 200-300ft from summit
- SUCCESS!
- Amazing limit-less day!
- Tough hike – but going home with a smile on our face!




















































