Started Day 2 driving eastwards from Vik through the lava field Eldhraun, formed from the massive Laki [volcano] eruption in 1783 (which also caused a crazy, cold summer in the States – snow in June & July).
A paper written by Benjamin Franklin in 1783 blamed the unusually cool summer of 1783 on volcanic dust coming from Iceland, where the eruption of Laki volcano had released enormous amounts of sulfur dioxide, resulting in the death of much of the island’s livestock and a catastrophic famine which killed a quarter of the Icelandic population. Northern hemisphere temperatures dropped by about 1 °C in the year following the Laki eruption.
Bright green moss voraciously clings to volcanic rock in this area creating a spongy layer — which in turn supports other herbaceous life like crowberries (a tasty, tart berry – I ate 2 handfuls 🙂 )
From the lava fields of Eldhraun, we stopped briefly for an elf story (Icelanders love their fables – elves, ogres, trolls) before travelling on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where I snapped an amazing shot of the Foss waterfall with Icelandic horses grazing in the foreground.
Glaciers & Icebergs
Today’s tour completed the loop around southern Iceland — entering Skaftafell National Park to view the mighty glaciers formed by the Vatnajökull Ice Cap. WOW²! (used when WOW just isn’t enough 🙂 )
Europe’s 2nd largest ice shelf covers almost 10% of Iceland. Glacier blues, mucky silt-laden rivers, crevasses large enough to hide a bus – WOW, WOW, WOW! Seriously addicted — I could not get close enough. Soooo…paid for a super jeep excursion which drove out onto the glacier itself, allowing time to climb up volcanic rock overlooking a snow-filled crater. INCREDIBLE!
In between glacier viewings, logged in a couple hours at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Had never previously rode in an amphibious vehicle – SUPER cool! First motored, then drove into the Lagoon, boating around recently calved icebergs from the surrounding shelf. Ate a piece of 1000 year-old iceberg – compacted glacial ice chipped away with an ice axe. AAAAAMAZING DAY!
Gonna enjoy the rest of Iceland but check – already hit all of my ‘bucket list’ highlights, only 2 days in. SPECTACULAR!
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- the lava fields of Eldhraun
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- green moss clings to volcanic rock creating a spongy layer
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- crowberries (a tasty, tart berry – I ate 2 handfuls :))
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- Foss (waterfall)
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- Basalt rock & Icelandic horses
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- Kirkjubæjarklaustur – home of elves
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- size-compare homes near the tongue of Vatnajökull – MASSIVE glacier!
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- Icelandic Vanna White has a tougher gig than her American cousin
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- WOW moment! LOVE LOVE glaciers!
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- new snow 🙂
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- crevasses large enough to hide a bus
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- never tire of tundra colour – AMAZING!
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- Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
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- baby’s first amphibious vehicle – LOVED it!
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- Icebergs!
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- try to stop smiling – not possible
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- SPECTACULAR!
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- check out those glacial blues – WOW!
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- 1000+ year old ice
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- don’t mind if I do
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- baby’s first super jeep – I want one!
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- glacier trekking in Iceland
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- cold wind-swept landscape
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- quick climb UP – had to, right?
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- volcano crater
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- WOW² – most amazing day!
Purchased an annual Park pass again this year – but all the talk about FREE day inspired me to drive up to Estes & hike another trail in RMNP (2 years in Colorado but still so many trails to choose from – LOVE it!).
The 13 Fee Free Days in 2013 include Martin Luther King Jr. Day (January 21), National Park Week (April 22 – 26), Founders Day (August 25), National Public Lands Day (September 28), and Veterans Day Weekend (Nov. 9-11).
Picked out today’s hike while on the Park N Ride bus provided by RMNP (parking within the Park is crazy crowded through Labor Day – so why not enjoy a free ride to the trailhead?)
Wait, REWIND — 2 days prior, rented a fun Australian film titled Mental. In the opening scene, a mom of five daughters is in her backyard pulling laundry, goes mental, spinning in the backyard singing ‘The Hills are Alive’ from The Sound of Music.
Then on Saturday I hear ‘Climb Every Mountain’ – again, from The Sound of Music. What are the chances?
So when I see a 9.3 mile hike in the Park named (Julie) Andrews Glacier, hmmm…kismet. [Ok, the glacier was not named for Julie Andrews but she was commencement speaker this year at CU – coincidence, I think not. :)]
FAST FORWARD to today’s hike. Hopped off [the bus] at Glacier Gorge trailhead & made a quick stop .8 miles in — at Alberta Falls. I’ve been here before but wow – when the water is sudden/rushing/alive, it’s just breathtaking.
Few more miles within treeline, a 2nd hike stop at The Loch. Loch Vale Lake was an end destination during last year’s hike challenge — but that was November and in the midst of a white-out. This day, stopped and smelled the roses, er…pine.
The trail then snaked noticeably UP over boulders to The Gash & Sharktooth, jugged sawtooth peaks saddled with deposits of glacier snow. Followed a happy Colorado hiking couple (Johnstown & Denver) up the final push to Andrews Tarn & Glacier.
WOW, WOW, WOW!
I have not lost my sense of awe in 20 months of hiking. It’s here, here in the mountains where I feel close to God.
Did a Julie Andrews spin for pics – but unfortunately looked more like Wonder Woman so you won’t find any attached. LOL>
Wait wait, a tarn?
A tarn is a mountain lake or pool, formed in a cirque excavated by a glacier. It is formed when either rain or river water fills the cirque. In Scandinavian languages a tjärn is a small natural lake, often in a forest or with vegetation close around it or growing into the lake.
Waded to my shins in the glacier fed tarn – really really cold water. First numbing then my feet cramped from the intense cold. Life’s meant to be lived. How many dudes get to wade in a glacial pond at 11,400ft? WOW, what a crazy happy life!
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- Alberta Falls, near Glacier Gorge trailhead – WOW!
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- Hike on!
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- Mountain Ash berries
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- The Loch (no monster – but check out the view!)
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- wonder if this is how God sees us
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- Checked in, centered – I LOVE hiking!
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- The Gash (& glacial snow)
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- fellow hikers led climb UP to Andrews
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- Sharkstooth
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- summit view of the Continental Divide
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- WOW pic – Andrews Glacier. AMAZING!
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- numbing waters of Andrews Tarn – Bring it!
8 14ers summited (7 unique/summited Quandary in both summer & winter) but had never previously climbed the peak I see every morning from my Louisville home.
Longs Peak is by far the most technical 14er climb I have ever attempted (a Class 3). Additionally Longs’ climb window is shorter because of inclement weather (snow, ice & lotta exposure to afternoon lightning).
Dropped Ro at his pal Molly’s on Friday night (Longs is located within RMNP – no dogs allowed) & set my alarm for 1:45am. Yep, seriously early start. Hit the road for a 3am meetup in Lyons with hikers John & Cammy (from Flattop/Hallett hike). Left the trailhead just before 4am – only 2 spots left in parking. Crazy, huh?
Headlamps for an hour half, day break, then our first view of Longs. Another hour across the Boulderfield & up to the Keyhole (popular winter hike challenge). Super star hiker Cammy slowed briefly so I could catch my breath – then across the Traverse as we followed a well-marked trail of bulleyes. (John stayed behind at the Keyhole.)
To the left of the Keyhole stands a stone hut erected to memory of Agnes Vaille. Having accomplished the first winter ascent of the East Face on January 12, 1925, she was caught in a storm a died of exposure, a companion lost fingers, toes, and part of a foot; and a would-be rescuer also froze to death.
Next up, the Trough. Not a huge fan of the Boulderfield (John’s fave), but that was meek whining compared to the show playing in my head at the Trough – aka Stairmaster from Hell. Cammy said the key is not looking UP….and UP & UP & UP.
Much of the remaining altitude is accounted for here, climbing over chunks of granite at an angle approaching 35 degrees. Be aware of falling rocks, and be careful not to free any.
The Trough gave way to the Narrows – a rock ledge loop around the backside of Longs. Honestly, found this narrow ledge far less frightening than stories posted from hikers past. PLUS the sun came out – so our horizon kicked up big time. Beautiful.
For the most part the route is level and as wide as a generous sidewalk, but there is a short stretch where it’s only a couple of feet wide and the wall about tilts out above you and over the dropoff – but only for a few steps.
The Narrows looped around into the Home Stretch – a rock climb scramble to Longs summit. AMAZING, LOVED it! Lotta natural hand holds available on the rock face. Scaled over to avoid wet rock (poor footing). UP, UP, UP. Favourite part of hike!
Summited at 940am. WOW! (Cammy does not let up – super fast hiker.)
Sunshine, no lightning. Incredible views!
ALSO, met up with 2 different hikers whom I had met last year when hiking Grays. What are the chances? Shane had FB’d me a day prior, inviting me to join his man group of 3 from Loveland. Chris has just moved from Iowa last September & was getting married within weeks. This day, met the wife & snapped their Longs summit pic. Small world.
Hike return could be broken into 2 distinct hikes. Summit to Keyhole, Cammy suggested we crabwalk. Trail running & crabwalking – we barreled down the mountain fast. Took a short break & rejoined John at the Keyhole.
Paid for poor eating habits over the Boulderfield return, emptying my stomach at least 3 times (woke uber early & ate little during our 11 hour hike – bad combo). John & Cammy suggested I power nap for 15 minutes. Located a large flat rock – SUCCESS! Not 100% but probably 85% better. Hooray! Face wash, bathroom break & now good to go.
Shane, Milt & Sergei invited our threesome to join them for soup & pie at the Baldpate Inn, just outside of Estes. Anytime food is involved, just say yes 🙂 Fun conversation & I’m a HUGE fan of pie (the rhubarb pie was A+). Will return for soup & pie after RMNP x-country ski adventures this winter. Yep, already looking forward to snow 🙂
WATCH my video ‘Longs Peak 14,259ft’
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- Longs Peak from my ‘hood (Jan 2012)
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- early start – 3am meetup w/ John & Cammy in Lyons
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- headlamps for an hour half, then SUNRISE 🙂
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- first daylight peek of Longs
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- the Boulderfield
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- glacier fields & craggy rock
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- final climb to Keyhole
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- hiker shelter – left my poles here
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- the Keyhole – WOW shot!
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- 5 minute break – soaking it all in
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- the Traverse
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- bullseye trail markers
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- the Trough
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- aka ‘Stairmaster from Hell’
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- amazing scenery but (for me) most difficult part of hike
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- top of the Trough – big smiles, no more whining
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- the Narrows
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- rock ledge around backside of Longs
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- Home Stretch rock climb – straight UP
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- my most technical 14er climb – SUPER FUN!
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- SUMMIT SUCCESS!
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- WOW, WOW, WOW!
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- sunshine & smiles – check, off my ‘bucket list’
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- getting old, 1:45am start came too early (15-minute power nap – thanks John & Cammy)
