Geyser Day 2018, Montana Take 2.
Paid registration for Sunday’s marathon once before. 2016 was a marathon no-show. Whole lotta puking that summer/didn’t stop a family vacation with Ash & Tom though. Rode horses in the Tetons, bear watched in West Yellowstone, geyser-gazed for 2 days in USA’s first National Park. Ever dependable Old Faithful: filmed its eruption, ate lunch in the Lodge. AWESOME LIFE memories.
Fast forward two years. No cancer, no 10-hour monster ride to Wyoming. Hour-15 direct flight to Bozeman. Marathon Eve plans? Yellowstone NEW. Whole section of geysers never seen on the Montana border. Same GREAT Park, NEW life adventure 😊
7am wakeup, FREE hotel breakfast, MT Highway 89 South to Gardiner. Crossed under Roosevelt Arch, Yellowstone’s North Entrance. Dedicated in 1903, this was the Park’s origin – directly across from Fort Yellowstone, established to protect the Park. Quick stop at Albright Visitor Center (ya’ll know I dig museums), then moved the rental forward another half-mile to Mammoth Hot Springs.
How have I NEVER visited Mammoth Hot Springs before? WOW, WOW, WOW! 2 mile hike-about. Naturally-formed terraces of crystallized calcium carbonate. Reminiscent of Death Valley’s salt flats. Walked the perimeter to Canary Springs before looping back.
Time check: 3 hours. Old Faithful & Grand Prismatic Spring, tops on my list.
Walked right up & watched Old Faithful spew. Not the front row seat I secured 2 years ago – but the timing, mighty perfect. Ya can’t visit Yellowstone & skip the Main Event, duh. Gotta/hafta/must experience EVERY time. Remarkable force of nature.
‘BEST of’ finale: Grand Prismatic Spring, an eye candy WOWser & my Park personal fave. “Named for its striking coloration, the Spring’s colors match the rainbow dispersion of white light: red, orange, yellow, green, and blue.” It’s a CAN’T miss.
Yellowstone 2018. No regrets; saw something old, saw something new. LOVE LOVE our National Parks ❤️
Drive to Ennis — spotted a BRAND NEW Visitors’ Center (Gallatin County MT). Earthquake Lake. Unplanned stop/didn’t know its story. Trees & rock from the seismic mountain collapse (blocking the Madison River/forming Earthquake Lake), creepily still crest water’s edge, stand trapped/barren/dead today. Well done retelling of events (actual pics & video).
Lodge check-in, early sleeps. Marathon eve. School bus road-trippin’ in the morning 🚌
Story of Earthquake Lake
It was near midnight on August 17th, 1959 when an earthquake near the Madison River triggered a massive landslide. The slide moved at 100 mph and in less than 1 minute, over 80 million tons of rock crashed into the narrow canyon, blocking the Madison River and forming Earthquake Lake. This earth- changing event, known as the Hebgen Lake Earthquake, measured 7.5 on the Richter scale. At the time it was the second largest earthquake to occur in the lower 48 states in the 20th century. Twenty-eight people lost their lives in the event.
- Roosevelt Arch (1903)
- Fort Yellowstone (1891)
- Mammoth Hot Springs
- dormant Liberty Cap
- Minerva Terrace
- crystallized calcium carbonate
- Canary Spring
- Old Faithful
- every 90 minutes
- discovered during the Washburn Expedition of 1870
- Midway Geyser Basin
- Excelsior Geyser Crater
- Grand Prismatic Spring
- US’ largest hot spring
- ‘brilliantly colored’
- created by tragic West Yellowstone earthquake (1959)
Geyser Day 2018
2 DNFs in the same month? Timed-out at this year’s Bighorn. Even an Olympic-quick kick from the last aid station, wouldn’t have extended today’s trek. Long by 90 minutes. Right ankle throbbed, foot now numb. Whole group of folks waiting for ATVs to haul them outta Cow Camp. Would walk the last 6 ½ miles with 2 new friends. No belt buckle today but no fail. Finished on my own terms.
2:15 alarm. Morning came early. Clothes laid out, teeth brushed. Goodbyes to the front desk clerk, school bus passed on my walk to Holiday Inn. First stop: Tongue River High School, Dayton WY. Added 2 busses to our convoy, next up: Jaws Trailhead, Bighorn National Forest (Wyoming’s Rockies). Nodded off the next hour. Rocked awake once we hit dirt. Overcast/pitch dark, bus driver pointed to the trailhead path. 52 mile Start.
Long line of runners, dusky single-track trail. Eyes ahead, muddled chatter/short conversations between runners. Jockeyed back-n-forth first mile. Nervous excitement. Two runners came ’round thru the grass – was audibly spooked, thought they were moose (big Momma/2 calves delayed us leaving our bus). Log jam ‘round the first mud hole. Carefully chose my path, keeping feet dry/shoes clean. In hindsight, BIG laugh.
Elk Camp, first aid station. Spring Marsh, our second. Temps cool, felt GREAT. 8 miles complete; maybe, just maybe [gonna happen]. Weather near perfect, on track with electrolytes, stomach a-ok. Mind dialed in, pace steady. All ’bout managing Cutoff. Schedule seemed aggressively early-stacked. First drop bag at mile 18. Hoping at arrive by 9am, full hour ahead. I’d need those 60 minutes to hit Dry Creek Ridge by 3.
MUD. Shoe-sucking MUD. Black sewage-smelling MUD. River of MUD. Miles & miles of MUD.
One step forward, half-step back, one step wide, forward & repeat. Folks that managed best, carried hiking poles. Elevation map super deceiving; MUD negated any/all DOWNHILL time savings. SLOW 25-minute pace, worse than a walk. 7 miles between Spring Marsh & Cathedral Rock. Checked my Garmin, still not there. Out of fluids. Ultimately reached the aid station, 2 short miles from Footbridge. Because of trail conditions, volunteers not able to set up as expected.
DEEP MUD thick over the shoes. Up past the ankles, Newtons covered. Wet feet, bulging big toe blister. I don’t blister, have callused/gnarled runner’s feet. Body’s never hydrated enough to spare the liquid. first Drop Bag at the next Aid Station, stay Positive. Fresh shoes/socks, food.
“20 minutes ‘til cut-off. Every runner must go by the check-out tent before heading back out.”
20 minutes? Are you frickin’ kidding me? Where did the time go? Arrived at Sally’s Footbridge. Volunteer had my drop bag waiting. Another volunteer brought water to wash feet. Medic asked if I needed anything. “Think I have a large blister.” Shoe off, foot washed, medic lances the blister, wraps my toe, ready ready to go. Crazy blur of amazing helpful individuals. Absolutely WOW’d. Is this how the Elites feel? Staggered out/time pushed, swallowed couple strips of ‘drop bag’ turkey bacon. Emotional roller-coaster, mentally regrouping. Excited, elevated, confused, disappointed. Eat. Swallow. Breathe. Need to consume calories or I’ll bonk like Dirty 30. Breathe. Ok. I’m ok. Fresh shirt, dry feet. I’m ok. One foot in front of the other (thanks Sarah). I’ve got this.
2000ft UP. Long stretch of MUD, path slick from previous night’s rain/light hail. Reached for low-hanging limbs, held tight, pulled myself forward. Now DOWN. More black sticky MUD. Used both hands to recover my left shoe, lost in the slew. Wet sloppy disgusting mess. This is crazy. Seemingly impossible, absolutely crazy.
Passed my first 100-mile racer. Pacer trying to keep her upbeat. She started the night before, WOW. I’d see her again later, ATV-carted from Dry Creek. Slogging, pushing, sliding. One step forward, slide, reach for foliage, repeat. MUD, day’s only constant. Right foot throbbed. Ankle swelled inside my shoe, loosened the strings. Didn’t even remember the blister (thanks medic).
Met 2 runners coming my direction, facing me. Wrong turn taken top of the hill; I looped left, should’ve gone right. ARGH. Mud splattered, mentally worn, mind going DARK. No vehicles, no ATVs, no cell phone, no way out. Horse-only option for ranger radio’d emergencies. Never saw a horse, never saw a ranger. Myth. Bodies left in the deep woods to decay. Head demons; they’re real.
8 miles more. Outta liquids again. Bear Camp, WHERE are you? Arrived; refilled both hydration bottles. Ankle sore/low pulsing throb, but shooting pain gone, foot now numb. Long day.
Most beautiful stretch of trail ahead. Green meadow, alpine flowers, minimal mud. Clouds parted, SUNSHINE. This WILL NOT break me. Quiet, digging deep. Out here by myself.
First signs of life, mile outside Cow Camp. Human handwriting on a paper sign. I’m ok. Steady hop/drag gait. Ok. Long step with my left, dragging the dead-weight right. Mind wandered. Envisioned myself an amputee, dragging my prosthetic close quick-step behind.
Young girl ran up from Cow Camp. Did I need anything? Head shook YES but my mouth provided no words. Do I need water? Do I want chips? Do I want crackers? Would I like Gatorade?
I stopped, looked UP. “I want to sit down.”
Cow Camp was like a Civil War field hospital. Lotta broken soldiers. Guy laying on the ground, covered with a blanket. He’s most critical. When an ATV arrives, he’s first to Dry Creek. Young girl came by again after her rounds, attending the wounded. Water & Goldfish [crackers], please. Do I want a bowl? Would I like them on a plate? I just stared. She returned with a bowl.
2 more runners arrived, Jackson & Missy. Remembered them from earlier (wrong way UP Mud Hill). Happy UPBEAT attitudes. “We’re going on”, they announced. Girl told them to tell her dad (check-out tent). I stood up. “I’m going to Dry Creek.” We were 3.
Missy was a chatter. Grew up in Minnesota, married/divorced, has lived in Sheridan 2 years, loves her job, real estate here is too expensive, has a cat, wants a dog, likes to hike, first marathon was Grandma’s (Duluth MN). Do I talk too much?
I stopped, smiled. Nope. Appreciated the companionship, lotta hours alone. Color back in my cheeks. NO more MUD.
Awesome end to mentally/physically challenging day. Walked it out with 2 Boston Marathon qualifiers. Didn’t medal today, didn’t earn a belt buckle but I also didn’t quit. Trailhead pose goodbye, Bighorn done/over. BIG smile.
DNS 2017, DNF 2018…third time a charm? I’m buying poles 🙂
- 11 ½ hours – most time ever on my feet
- 34 ½ miles – longest distance ever completed
- all ’bout managing Cutoff
- Dry Fork by 3
- TOUGH BIGHORN day — miles, time & elevation PRs, most/longest EVER
- trailhead pose goodbye
6 months ago packed my iPad for Hawaii – sole reason: Bighorn sign-up, opening day January 5th.
Winter turned Spring, Spring to early Summer. Negative temps/snow replaced with sunshine & 80’s. Slowly increased my miles, marathoning much of the Northeast & Mid-Atlantic while training. Saturday’s the day. Bighorn reality.
One-way flight to Gillette. How many people can say that? Boarded 10:20pm, touched down an hour later. Red state. Rode behind a bold Trump lid, ‘Make America Great Again’. Lucky for me I live in Colorado. Pretty great there.
[Already secured a return ride home. Runner friends travelled early, acclimatizing this week.]
Surprisingly, whole lotta hotel options in Gillette. Coal mining, oil, natural gas & antelope – town’s claim to fame. Sleeps at the Arbuckle Lodge. Nice hotel, hearty cowboy breakfast. Cowboys still live & die in Wyoming. Boots, hat, crazy good manners.
Hour-half commute to Sheridan. Hotel check-in, tenth-mile from tomorrow’s 2:45am school bus pick-up. Booked early, GREAT digs, PERFECT location. Last-minute food reconnaissance. Added a pound of microwaved turkey bacon to tomorrow’s drop bags.
Fresh shoes, dry socks, 2 half-bottles of Imodium & a pound of turkey bacon – ready, ready for Bighorn.
Trail race registration, barrage of stressed-out texts messaged to Sis, bed by 8. Tomorrow we run.
- wide open spaces
- Wyoming!
- Red State wrong
- deer & the antelope play ♫
- Wild Wild West
- hearty cowboy breakfast
- oil derricks & mining
- “Change inspires Creativity”
- drop bag prep
- Welcome Trail Runners
- tomorrow we run